Vegetable Tom Yum Soup

Method

1. Bring the vegetable broth to a simmer with the bruised lemongrass, galangal slices, torn makrut lime leaves, and crushed Thai chiles, then keep it just under a boil for 15 minutes so the aromatics infuse.
2. Stir in the Thai chili paste until it dissolves and the broth turns orange and glossy.
3. Add the onion wedges and the torn oyster mushrooms and simmer until the mushrooms are silky, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and the cubed firm tofu and heat through for 3 minutes without stirring hard, so the tofu stays whole.
5. Season with the soy sauce and granulated sugar, then take the pot off the heat entirely and stir in the lime juice; boiled lime juice turns dull and slightly bitter.
6. Taste and balance until the broth is aggressively sour, salty, and hot at once, then ladle it out and scatter the chopped cilantro over each bowl.