Bacon Risotto

Method

1. Render the bacon in a wide heavy pan over medium heat until crisp, 8 to 10 minutes, then lift it out with a slotted spoon and pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat. Keep the chicken broth at a bare simmer in a separate pan.
2. Cook the onion in the bacon fat for 6 minutes until soft, add the garlic for 30 seconds, then stir in the arborio rice and toast it for 2 minutes, until the grains are translucent at the edges.
3. Pour in the dry white wine and stir until it has nearly evaporated.
4. Add the hot chicken broth one ladle at a time, stirring often and letting each addition be almost absorbed before the next goes in. This takes 18 to 20 minutes; the risotto is ready when the grains are tender with a slight bite at the center and the whole thing spreads slowly across a tilted pan.
5. Stir in the frozen peas and cook 2 minutes more, until they are bright and hot through.
6. Off the heat, beat in the cold butter, the Parmesan, and the black pepper until glossy, then fold in most of the bacon. Serve immediately topped with the rest of the bacon and the chives.